A Weekend in New Orleans

The NOLA Diaries: Adventures of the Creole Quatre

When most people think about spending a weekend in New Orleans, going during the peak of summer usually isn’t the first time to come to mind. You expect it to be hot, humid and rainy – plus, the air conditioning needs to be cranking everywhere.

A visit to New Orleans at this time of year would be understandable if you’re scheduled to attend a business meeting or conference. That’s an obligation. Our summer getaway was planned for late July and we wanted to listen to music, indulge in food and experience the vibe of New Orleans. And it didn’t require extending a work trip.

This was a first time visit for my friends Pooja (visiting from India) and Sachin. They are extremely well traveled and I was curious about their impressions.

My friend Bryan has been to New Orleans for business and fun many times — he knows it well. Bryan was intent on making sure we hit the right places without feeling rushed or overly structured. I’ve also been to New Orleans a few times (check out my New Orleans travel review).

Weekend Trips Begin at the Airport

Trying to get four people scheduled on the same flights is too complicated. We decided each would attempt to arrive and/or depart around the same times, if possible. The weekend would start at some on Thursday and last through Sunday evening to squeeze in as much as possible.

Bryan and I booked a flight Thursday evening to accommodate other obligations earlier in the day. Pooja and Sachin were on a different flight that arrived Thursday afternoon. More about that later.

I learned at check-in that my flight was seriously delayed based on weather — my  gate was at the far end of Terminal 2 at O’Hare. Delays don’t usually bother me. I did some scrolling on the phone and chatted up other passengers who were also disrupted in their various departures.

Bryan texted after he settled in near the gate at the far end of Terminal 1. I missed that United Airlines made a gate change since I arrived a bit earlier. Transferring terminals at O’Hare is a hike, but an easy way to pass time. He was sitting at the bar of the Berghoff and had a Manhattan waiting for me. (It’s good to have friends who are good at passing time.)

We arrived at midnight to the Sheraton New Orleans, a meetings and convention hotel with 1,100 guest rooms located at a prime spot on Canal Street.

Weekend in New Orleans: Day 1 (Friday)

Thursday was an informal first day for Pooja and Sachin. They explored the French Quarter, enjoyed dinner, listened to music and figured out the logistics quite well. We kicked off the weekend on Friday morning in the hotel lobby. We mapped out thoughts about the next two days.

9: 30 a.m.: Café Du Monde and the French Quarter

The group strolled directly to Café du Monde – a New Orleans institution on Decatur Street, across the street from Jackson Square and St. Louis Cathedral.

Cafe du Monde gets crowded, but you can find an outdoor table. We ordered warm beignets and the powdered sugar was piled high (Pooja was pleasantly surprised by it), along with a mix of morning drinks each preferred.

During breakfast we challenged ourselves to theme the weekend in New Orleans for our private photo blog. Each traveler should give Bryan ideas.

 

Supercharged with carbs, sugar, caffeine and juices, we walked that off by wandering through the French Quarter. We stumbled across George Rodrigue Studios on Royal Street. He’s famous for his iconic Dog paintings.

The sign showed the studio as open with what seemed to be obvious signs that someone should be inside. Unfortunately, the store was locked and we didn’t get in. It would have been a special experience to see his work up close, but we weren’t in the market to spend thousands of dollars anyway. And Rodrigue’s work is showcased in the lobby of Sheraton, so we could see it there.

Noon: The Garden District and Superior Seafood and Oyster Bar

Using New Orleans streetcars is a fun and cheap way to get around the city. They don’t go directly inside the French Quarter, but you can easily catch one on Canal Street (check the New Orleans RTA schedule and download its app to buy tickets). New Orleans streetcars date back to 1835 when powered by steam. That transitioned to electricity in 1893.

It rides down St. Charles Avenue to get to the Garden District (not far from the French Quarter) and we enjoyed it. Streetcars have open windows, wooden seats and benches. The speed is slower, but we weren’t worried about time.

I noticed a group of eight travelers all wearing the same Hawaiian shirts. New Orleans is a tourists’ town. We glanced at the different houses from our seats – the views won’t disappoint. (The area is spread out a bit better than the French Quarter.)

The driver stopped our streetcar where we planned to get off. She got off first, left the other passengers in the streetcar and ran across the street to Superior Seafood and Oyster Bar (clearly grabbing her planned lunch to go). We all agreed we’d follow in the footsteps of any local driver who makes such an impressive move.

That was a great decision: Superior Seafood and Oyster Bar has a French-inspired bistro feel. We sat at its oyster bar and had the space to ourselves. Our spontaneous break included cocktails, wine, cornbread and oysters (raw and cooked). Master oyster shucker Jay was happy to chat us up and showed us the mass volume he was preparing for the rush crowd that day.

2 p.m.: Paddlewheeler Creole Queen River Cruise

During lunch we decided our next stop and bought tickets: a Mississippi River cruise. There was enough time to use the streetcar to head back to the French District. We got off at a reasonably good spot and walked the remaining 15 minutes to get to the riverwalk area, a promenade along the Mississippi River.

Once aboard the Paddlewheeler Creole Queen River Cruise, we cooled off inside until the cruise casted off. We then went outside to take in the breeze and views.

This historical cruise is 2.5 hours and gives you a panoramic view of the Crescent City Connection Bridge, the French Quarter and industrial facilities along the riverbank. It stops about 45 minutes into the ride so you can get off the boat and learn about the Battle of New Orleans (1812).

During the ride back, our guide shared an incredible day-by-day insight into the days that followed Hurricane Katrina – which occurred nearly 20 years prior – in a roundtable discussion. That was worth the price of admission alone.

TA true paddlewheeler is steam-powered, but this isn’t the 19^th century – it moves by a modern diesel-electric system. That doesn’t take anything away from the experience. Walk to the stern side of the boat (rear) to watch the paddlewheel at work. (I took a video for myself.) he ship lives up to its name and seating is comfortable inside and out.

4:30 p.m.: Late Afternoon Stops

We wanted to visit the Sazerac House and get a tour that tells you a bit a bit its drinking history. The Sazerac is tied to New Orleans history as far back as the 1830s. And every restaurant and bar in New Orleans seems to offer it.

The online site indicated they stopped tours, but never rely exclusively on a digital source.

Sazerac House is next to our hotel so it wasn’t like it was a matter of going out of our way to stop inside. We were in luck — they were still allowing tours. You get to take a self-guided tour at your own pace through two floors of the museum where you learn how the Sazerac Rye whiskey is made. It has interactive exhibits, three mini-tasting stations and a brief documentary on the Sazerac cocktail.

I took home free coasters with recipes for cocktails, like the Sazerac, Herbsaint Frappe, Ramos Gin Fizz and Rangoom Gimlet, among others. Plan for about an 1.5 hours. It’s worth the visit.

Afterward, we relaxed at the Sheraton lobby bar. We gave ourselves about a half hour after that to get ready for the night. We were ready to experience dinner.

7 p.m.: Carousel Bar & Lounge, Galatoire’s Restaurant and Cuban Creations Cigar Bar

Anyone going to New Orleans will want to get a drink at the Carousel Bar & Lounge inside Hotel Monteleone on Royal Street. Bryan and I both wanted to make sure Pooja and Sachin had that experience.

We didn’t get seats at the bar (the carousel slowly goes around the bar), but the staff found us a sofa and couple chairs in the lounge where we listened to live music and grabbed a drink. We befriended a couple ladies who sat across from us on a facing sofa. They were celebrating a 21st birthday on a joint mother/daughter weekend. We shared some small talk and wished them a fun weekend.

It began to rain lightly so a couple of us created a makeshift head covering out the plastic umbrella sleeves offered at the hotel. The restaurant was located just a block over on the next street. It didn’t take long to get there.

Galatoire’s is on Bourbon Street. It’s a classic, elegant New Orleans institution that you won’t let you down. Being in New Orleans, we wanted a “foodie” experience. And Galatoire’s has offered that with its classic French Creole cuisine since 1905.

What is Creole? Culturally, in New Orleans, Creole is frequently referenced as those of European – emphasis on French and Spanish – or African descent, but born in America. The term today often reflects anyone of mixed ancestry and/or a mix of cultures.

Creole cuisine is perceived as more refined from a culinary perspective.

Galatoire’s has two dining rooms: One is formal (jackets required) and one is more relaxed. For us, visiting at the end of July, we had no plans to pack formal attire. We sat casually in the back dining room – it offers the same food and beverages menu (you still need to dress a little bit appropriately, such as collared shirts, etc.). Our table enjoyed:

• Shrimp remoulade
• Crab maison
• Escargot
• Turtle soup au sherry
• Duck and andouille gumbo
• Chicken creole
• Broiled tomato
• Spinach Rockefeller
• Brabant potatoes
• Domaine de la Mandeliere Mont de Millieu 1st Cru Chablis 2021

Make sure you reserve a spot early in your trip planning. Impeccable service and quality – unforgettable.

After dinner, we strolled a bit down Bourbon Street. It’s worth the bar and people watching. We ultimately ended the night at a cigar bar, Cuban Creations. They have a little bit of outdoor seating, but go inside to get the full experience – ambiance and aromas. It has an Old Havanah style with various cozy seating areas, leather couches and comfortable armchairs.

Cuban Creations will meet your expectations. The other guys bought cigars and drinks. Pooja and I skipped that and focused on hydrating. We walked back to the hotel and ended around midnight.

Be prepared that everything you wear will smell like cigars when you get back to the hotel. I wasn’t worried because I pack a mini fabric freshener spray. Then, I discovered my fabric spray was empty this trip (oops).

Weekend in New Orleans: Day 2 (Saturday)

We had a plan when we first talked about New Orleans: Eat breakfast across the river in Algier’s Point and discover a neighborhood where few typically go. We also wanted to take in a plantation tour. Today, we could do both.

10:30 a.m.: Algier’s Point

To get to Algier’s Point you pick up a five-minute ferry at the riverfront near the Paddlewheeler from yesterday. New Orleans starts to become easy to navigate in a short time even though there is so much to do on every street.

On the ride over, our theme was decided. Bryan combined two suggestions into one and advised everyone how to start uploading our various photos to our private trip gallery: The NOLA Diaries: Adventures of the Creole Quatre.

Algier’s Point is a charming, historic neighborhood of locals – about 2,200 people. You won’t find many shops or businesses there. But it’s quaint and they have options.

We walked the residential streets and noticed different homes along the way. We saw a couple “for sale” signs.

Our breakfast stop: Tout de Suite Café. As the name says, it serves quickly and had a steady line of people inside. I had a traditional breakfast while the others chose local Cajun and Creole options.

The internet indicated Algiers Point has a glassblowing business, Rosetree Blown Glass Studio and Gallery. We wanted to check it out. It’s located in an old movie theater that was converted by Mark Rosenbaum, the owner. It was open (despite details to the contrary on Google) and we went in.

Mark’s work is impressive. We had a nice chat with Mark and his wife (a retired schoolteacher). Our timing was fortuitous: The couple was finalizing their plans to retire and the building was for sale – they were entertaining possible offers for the building. (You may be able to stay in touch with him through his online site.)

Next, we went to Bargeboard. This is the shop of Kristin Giselson Palmer, and she founded her business in 2014. Her shop was located in other places, but this appears to be her home. Kristin is a woodworking artist. If you can make it here, check out the old millwork and doors in her woodshop area.

Bargeboard has an eclectic range of antiques and resells the work of other local artisans. A couple midcentury end tables caught my eye. I was considering them to serve as my coffee table at home (sitting them side-by-side in front of my sectional at home). The thought was to measure and decide if it would fit the room after returning home. Unfortunately, they were not the right size.

We made our way back to ferry, but missed it by a couple minutes. That gave us another 30-minute window to check out one more store, Beatrixbell Handcrafted Jewelry.

Bryan surprised Pooja with a memento from there – a painted oyster shell with a New Orleans map in it. We headed back to the ferry, encountering a light drizzle at the end. It didn’t last but a couple minutes during the ride.

4 p.m.: Destrehan Plantation (about 30 minutes by a rideshare service)

Because our schedule took more time than anticipated, we moved our tour from 3 p.m. to 4 p.m., the last of the day.

Uber got us there in less than 30 minutes. If you’re wondering how you’ll get back, don’t worry: Destrehan is located about 10 minutes from the airport. The upside: Uber drivers who are waiting at the airport for fares will accept the option to bring you back downtown.

Destrehan Plantation is the oldest documented plantation in the lower Mississippi Valley. This is an educational experience for everyone. The plantation dates back to 1782 when eight square miles was purchased by a Frenchman. The main house was originally Creole architecture (smaller and practical) and evolved to Greek Revival after a renovation.

Some of the buildings have been moved. Some of the construction and furnishings require replicas and aren’t original because of looting during the 1960s when people stole much of the marble and furniture from the house.

Our guide Clint gave an honesty and insightful tour of that era, balancing how the Colonial era evolved and was controlled under mostly French law with a 30-year period of Spanish control along the way. You’ll be surprised by how this plantation evolved during this time.

The plantation was initially established for indigo crops because that was used to create the blue dye needed for the French uniforms. It eventually became a sugar cane producer (biggest producer in the 1800s). It started with a dozen enslaved individuals from West Africa and grew to 240.

We ended the tour in the giftshop while we waited for our ride back to the hotel. I surprised Pooja with a Venetian mask of her choice from the store.

At the Sheraton, the four of us enjoyed a round of drinks in the lobby bar and gave ourselves an hour to relax before dinner.

8 p.m. Atchafalaya

We chose to head outside the French Quarter and chose Atchafalaya for a refined Cajun meal and experience based on reviews. Atchafalaya is located near the Garden District, but it’s actually in the Irish Channel neighborhood. We reserved a table only a day ahead of time, but you should plan better than that (we got in because it was basically off season).

What is Cajun? Well, culturally, Cajuns are descendants of French-speaking Acadians – originally from the Nova Scotia region. They eventually settled in Louisiana. Cajun cuisine is typically heartier, rustic. Think “jambalaya.”

Atchafalaya is an elongated shotgun house and dinner begins outside with a giant frying pan sculpture installation leaning up against the building – get yourself a group shot (we did). Our table was upstairs on the second level, the atmosphere was warm and cozy, and the service was amazing.

We enjoyed different craft cocktails, soup (a melon gazpacho that was Cajun style with crabmeat or gumbo), low country shrimp and grits, pan-seared yellllowtail snapper, crisp duck leg and homemade sorbet. We drank a bottle of Domain Grosbois “Extra Ball” Chinon Rose 2023 and had a glass of Chateau Laribotte Sauternes 2015 with the dessert.

Pleased with the meal, the group unanimously agreed that the weekend had a perfect pairing of dinners that make New Orleans so famous: Creole and Cajun. It was time to head back into the French Quarter for some music and more drinks.

10 p.m. French Quarter Entertainment

We took an Uber to Bourbon Street and landed somewhere in the middle of things. We stopped into Fritzel’s European Jazz Pub for live jazz music and had a couple drinks. We followed that at another bar that had more of a live “oldies” set with a hint of jazz. Both were fun.

Having spent time in the heart of the French Quarter, we focused our attention on Frenchman’s Street. Setting our mobile phones to a walking path, it took us about 20 minutes or so to get there. We distracted ourselves with the offerings along the way.

Now, for those of you who haven’t been to Frenchman Street in a while, it’s not the old school jazz clubs that you may remember. This street is youthful, but we were fine with that. When we first arrived, a younger street artist was offering to write poetry on the spot for whatever donation you wish to give. Bryan jumped at the chance to commission a poem from him. While that happened, I quickly checked the layout of the street for our next stops.

We first chose a bar that had a rock singer who was phenomenal. We then went to another club that had a great blues vibe. That took us to 2 a.m.

We flagged down the first taxi available and went back to the hotel. There, the other guys finished their cigars outside and we confirmed our late start for the next day.

Weekend in New Orleans: Day 3 (Sunday)

We were to meet around 10:30 a.m. (upon arrival at the Sheraton we confirmed a late checkout of 1 p.m.). Our departing flights weren’t until sometime during the 7 p.m. hour. As weekend getaways go, most of us often take an early afternoon flight back. But why?

Bryan and I started the day a bit earlier and walked the French Quarter for about an hour. We were hoping to get a chance to see the street sweepers that drive and vacuum up debris in one round. We didn’t see that, but we did get a bit of walking in, though.

11 a.m. Café Fleur De Lis

Our plan was to completely skip the hotel food on this trip. It’s New Orleans. But we didn’t want to travel far for food. On the advice of our concierge, explaining that this is where the locals go (including himself) this was located literally around the corner. Perfect.

Café Fleue De Lis has two locations. We went to the one by Camp and Canal. They offer a southern breakfast. I noticed that the menu included bananas foster, so it was decided that everyone will have this as a breakfast dessert. We highly recommend this place. It was convenient, the staff was pleasant and the food hearty and good. Be patient with the team – they get busy over there. It’s worth it.

1 p.m. The National WWII Museum

In chatting with different friends before and after the trip, I realized that most people are impressed with The National WWII Museum, but few seem to understand why New Orleans would have such an extensive museum.

Well, Higgins boats — made in New Orleans — were used throughout the war, and most famously for D-Day. They were crucial to the effort with land supplies.

I’ve been told it can take days to get through everything. And they are right. The campus has five buildings. We only had 3.5 hours.

We started with the L.W. Pete Kent Train Car Experience. It’s located right behind the ticket entrance. You get a brief introduction to the experience and are given your own dog tag. I was J. V. Lafleur from Ville Platte, LA. Lafleur was in chaplain in the 19th Bombardment Group. You can track the dogtag at interactive exhibits throughout the museum and you can bring it home to learn more online.

We visited the Arsenal of Democracy exhibit (the role of the U.S. home front during World War II), D-Day Invasion of Normandy, Campaigns of Courage (Europe and Pacific theaters). Detailed exhibits showcase what happened on the road to Berlin and Tokyo. We watched a quick 20-minute movie in the Freedom Theater.

The exhibits were curated perfectly – the museum takes you through detailed experiences and each main room has its own accompanying documentary that puts the displays into context.

4:45 p.m. Sheraton New Orleans and the Trip Home

We grabbed our baggage stored at the bell desk and met for a drink. We agreed how pleasant our weekend actually turned out: We had very little rain interfering with our trip even though it was predicted to rain every day. The weather was warm but quite pleasant.

Bryan and I were booked on a United Airlines flight that was connecting through Houston – with a narrow 45-minute window between each. Pooja and Sachin were on American and that was connecting through Dallas. They had a bit more time between flights – about 70 minutes. Both were the last connecting flights home from New Orleans.

Remember when I mentioned earlier that I’d share more about our return flight experience? Transportation home caps off any weekend trip.

Weather elsewhere wasn’t on our side.

A review of flight status online while at the Sheraton lobby bar discovered the United Airlines plane assigned to get us to Houston had serious delays (first coming from Denver to Houston and then Houston to New Orleans for our flight).

United began to shift its plans. A plane originating from Las Vegas and heading to Houston would pick-up passengers flying from New Orleans to Houston. That flight also had delays, and the time period was too close.

Neither of us wanted to be stuck in Houston overnight for different reasons. We went to the airport to check options before others in a similar situation would realize the United delays. The flight codes didn’t update yet, so there was little that could be done. They encouraged us to try to get into the prior flight that was about to leave. Despite our best movements through security, we were unsuccessful.

Backup plan: Southwest had its last direct flight to Midway at 7 p.m. We could be home before 10 p.m. And Midway Airport is actually a quicker ride home than O’Hare.

We bought tickets on the spot – one hour prior to departure. Costly, but worth the price.

We shared our update by text with our travel companions who we left behind in the Sheraton lobby. They felt badly for us.

Being an occasional glutton for punishment, of course I decided to check what happened to our flights. The United New Orleans to Houston flight did leave much later than originally planned, as we expected. But the flight from Houston to Chicago left even later.

The flight arrived in Chicago about an hour and 45 minutes after the original scheduled. All in – once leaving O’Hare, my arrival home would have been closer to 2:30 a.m.

Lesson: Avoid booking the last connecting flights home because you can’t predict weather unless you’re ready to get home potentially sometime the next day. Or, at least only book a direct flight because even if it’s late, there’s a really good chance you’re not going to be stuck.

Wondering what happened to the others who wished us well from the Sheraton lobby bar with drinks on the table only hours earlier?

Well, after we pulled into Midway my mobile phone was working again. Even though they had time to transfer their American Airlines flights in Dallas, their arrival was delayed much later than the connections allowed. American Airlines decided that the cause of delay had nothing to do with the airline itself. They offered no help, no vouchers, no overnight stay, no credit, no points.

Pooja and Sachin chose the 10:30 a.m. for the next day.  Their flight the next day had to reroute toMadison, WI, temporarily and they had to sit on that tarmac for an hour and a half. All in, it took them nearly 24 hours to get home.

Final Thoughts on a Weekend in New Orleans

I can’t let this weekend story end on the American Airlines fiasco.

First, New Orleans turned out to have as good of weather that we could have asked for. What

did we leave behind in Chicago? An unbearably hot, humid, raining weekend. (Ironic?)

The weekend in New Orleans was a terrific opportunity for four characters to take on a historic American city and walk away with deeper shared bonds and memories. We planned a loose agenda in advance with some must-do activities in mind, allowed the days to go at an easy pace and embraced spontaneous moments.

Most people describe their time in New Orleans as a place to indulge in food and music. We did, too. And, for a weekend, we became four adventurous Creoles.

(Have you spent a weekend in New Orleans? Share your experience with me.)